My husband and I have been together thirteen years (yikes!) and married for
seven. We've only had one real vacation together in all those years where it
was just the two of us. All the other vacations we've taken have
been separate of each other or together with friends. Until recently, our work
schedules just never meshed well. When I had vacation time from teaching, my
husband was in the throes of the peak greenhouse season. When he had downtime
in the winter, I was in the midst of teaching biology to a bunch of
pubescent teenagers.
Once I left my teaching career to assist him with our small business fulltime, we
finally were able to schedule in a real vacation....just the two of us.
I must admit I was a little nervous. We spend a lot of time together at work
and at home, but we'd always had buffers when it came to extended trips
together. What if we got bored with each other's company? It wasn't a serious
concern, but it was something to ponder during lulls in conversation.
How would we get along together for a week
without any traveling buffers around?
When it came to deciding where to go, I really wanted to take my husband to
Supai, AZ,
which I had visited in 2007 with a friend. It's an amazing place, as you can
see from the photos below. My husband wanted to see the
Grand Canyon,
so I booked plane tickets to
Las Vegas, which
would be our jumping off point for the rest of the vacation.
We arrived in Vegas and spent the first several nights absorbing the overt stimuli of the Strip. I much prefer
nature to nightlife, so it wasn't the best part of the trip for me, but the hubby
got to gorge himself at a couple major buffets and check out a couple shows, and
our visit to Hoover Dam was impressive. We left for the South Rim of the
Grand
Canyon on our third day and spent the afternoon walking the
overlook trails. I had been to the Grand Canyon before, but it was just as magnificent the second time around. We tried to take in as many views as we could, but it really is too vast to comprehend. It's difficult to grasp how deep and wide the canyon is unless you actually hike to the bottom. Luckily, we had plans to head west of the Grand Canyon National Park to the Hualapai Indian Reservation to take on that challenge

After
staying a night in
Tusayan, we loaded up our gear and set out for the
Hualapai Highway,
also called Indian 18. This is a dead-end road that brings you to a stark trailhead,
which leads to the
village of Supai. Supai is located in the bottom of a canyon,
surrounded by red rocks and blue skies. It's populated by only a few hundred
year-round residents, and it's only accessible by hiking, mule train, or
helicopter. All of the village's supplies are brought down via helicopter or
mule, and all the waste generated there is brought out in the same way. Havasu Creek runs through the canyon and
results in beautiful, turquoise waterfalls a few miles downstream from Supai. The water gets its color from the
loads of mineral deposits it accumulates from the surrounding rocks. Against
the red rocks of the canyon, the water takes on an unreal color. I had taken
the journey to these falls before, and I don't normally choose to visit the same
place twice when there's so much to see around this country, but I thought the
falls were spectacular enough to visit again. There's something about flowing
water that pulls me near.
Maybe it’s a
result of growing up just a stone’s throw from two great rivers—the
St.
Croix and the
Mississippi.
Regardless, it was the moving water that
was calling me back to Supai.
These waterfalls aren't nearly the biggest in the world nor the most
beautiful, but there's something about the color of the water against the
surrounding landscape, as well as their unique setting, that makes them so brilliant. Some experiences can lose their luster when repeated; the
novelty wares off. I was really hoping my return trip to the waterfalls of Supai would be equally as gratifying as my
initial visit.
We set off from the
trailhead around lunchtime and completed the eight mile
hike down to Supai in three hours. The
weather was perfect and the scenery was expansive. Once we arrived in Supai, we checked into the lodge and relaxed
a bit in our spartan room before heading to the cafe for a filling dinner of burritos.
 |
| Hualapai Hilltop |
The next morning we loaded up water, lunches, and cameras for
our six mile roundtrip hike to three different sets of waterfalls. We came into view of
Navajo
Falls just
a mile outside of Supai. They had
changed drastically since 2007 due to extreme flooding that hit the canyon in
2008 and 2009.
The
Navajo
Falls I saw five years ago no
longer existed, and the
Navajo Falls
of 2012 were completely new to me. I think the floods actually made them
more beautiful, and these falls definitely
spoke to the power of water.
I tried to
imagine a wall of water rolling through the canyon with enough force to literally move mountains and change the landscape in such a drastic
way. Evidence of the severe flooding was apparent not only in the changed water routes but also in the large amounts of debris strewn throughout the canyon.
 |
| Navajo Falls |
We continued our hike and made it to Havasu Falls
a mile downstream. These falls had also changed since my last visit. The
rerouted water upstream has resulted in water flowing over just a third of the rock face
it had covered before the flooding events. Even though Havasu Falls in now much narrower, it is
still a beautiful waterfall with inviting side channels and pools.
 |
| Havasu Falls |
After a lunch break and some gin rummy at the base of Havasu Falls,
we hiked one more mile to reach Mooney
Falls. These are the tallest of the
falls we visited, and it was a precarious climb to reach them--one that
required crawling through tunnels chiseled through the rock face
and climbing down steps etched into the sheer cliff.
 |
| Mooney Falls |
Later that night after hiking back to Supai, we fell asleep to the muffled sounds of three dozing
yet alert village dogs lying outside our lodge door.
(Impressively,
these same dogs were dozing in the shade at the top of the trailhead the
next morning.)
We began the eight mile hike back to Hualapai Hilltop early the next day. We fell into a good pace and were at the 6.5
mile marker before we knew it. The last 1.5 miles were the most daunting since
they’re composed almost entirely of steep switch backs cut into the canyon
wall. We took it step-by-step, rested when we needed to and reached the top
without too much trouble. Surprisingly, we made the eight mile hike out of the
canyon in the same amount of time it took us to go down. Our speedy exit was likely a result of my competitive nature coming out. When I have a destination to reach,
whether it's by walking, hiking, biking, or skiing, I fall into a racing
mentality. I end up in either an imaginary race with myself, or if there are
people in front of me, in a race to beat them. Regardless of the pace I set, my
husband was right on my heels the entire way and took the lead for the last,
most difficult mile.
 |
| The final ascent to Hualapai Hilltop. Notice the mule train, which provides a good scale for the size of the climb. |
After celebrating our successful ascent, we hopped in the rental car and
headed down the
Hualapai Highway
towards
Las Vegas
for our flight home the following day.
All in all, it was a great trip. My husband and I spend a lot of time
together at work and at home, but it was nice to spend time together outside of
our daily grind. It was nice to be on a solo adventure-- just the two of us--and my
halfhearted fear of having no buffers along was totally unwarranted. Even after
being together for thirteen years, I think our little vacation actually made
our relationship stronger. We're sometimes a bit too competitive with one
another; we frequently argue over which of us has worked harder on a given day even though we both regularly put in over seventy hours of work each week.
During this vacation, however, I felt like we were a well-oiled team, especially while heading in and out of Supai.
We accomplished the adventure together, and I think we both needed to temporarily
escape from our day-to-day lives to gain an improved perspective on things.
I'm very glad I made it back to Supai.
Not many people can say they've been there, let alone been there twice in their
lives. In a way, I can't help thinking that it was a last hurrah for my husband
and me. We've come to the consensus that we'd like children in our near future, so this might have been the last chance for the
two of us to take a trip like this as a couple--at least for the next decade or two.
I realize that having children means postponing some adventures, and
I’ve finally gotten to the point where I’m okay with that.
I may never get back to Supai again, but I'm glad my husband and I
made it there together.